What you might be noticing
Most people don’t come in for brakes because a schedule told them to. They come in because of a sound or a feel. A squeal when you first touch the pedal. A grinding noise when braking that gets a little louder every week. A pedal that sits lower than it used to. A shake through the steering wheel when you slow down coming off the 417. The car pulling left or right when you stop.
One of these is worth a look. Two or three together usually means the problem has been building for a while.
Brake wear tends to go in a certain order. A light squeal on the first stop of a damp morning is normal, since that’s moisture and surface rust coming off the rotors. A squeal that sticks around after the car is warm is the pad wear tab telling you the pads are thin. Grinding means the pads are gone. A soft or sinking pedal is a different problem altogether, usually air, moisture or a leak on the hydraulic side, and you should treat it as urgent no matter how the brakes otherwise feel.
What we rule out first
A pull under braking isn’t always the brakes. We check tire pressure and tire wear first, because a soft front tire can feel exactly like a brake pull. Then we look for a sticking caliper, which makes one side grab harder than the other. After that we get into the pads and rotors.
A pulsing pedal is usually rotors that have worn unevenly, what most people call warped rotors. We still confirm it on the car. A worn wheel bearing or a loose suspension part can shake at speed too, and new rotors won’t fix either one.
Ottawa winters add their own problem. Salt from Innes Road and every other street in the east end gets into the caliper slide pins, and once a pin seizes, the pads on that wheel wear on an angle or drag all the time. It’s one of the most common causes of uneven pad wear in this climate, and it has nothing to do with how you drive.
What we actually do
We take the wheels off. Looking through the spokes doesn’t tell you much. We measure pad thickness at all four corners, check the rotors or drums for scoring, lips and uneven wear, test the brake fluid, and look over the lines, hoses and calipers for leaks or sticking.
Then we call you with what we found. We’ll tell you what needs doing now and what can wait a few months, and you decide. Nothing gets replaced without your approval.
Depending on what turns up, the job can include:
- Brake pad replacement
- Rotor and drum resurfacing or replacement
- Brake fluid testing and flushes
- Caliper and master cylinder service
- Brake line repair and bleeding
- Complete brake system work when it’s needed
We work on all makes and models, domestic and import, with OEM or OEM equivalent parts, and the work is done by licensed technicians.
How long it takes
Pads and rotors on one axle are normally a same day job once you approve the work. A four wheel brake job, or one that also needs a fluid flush or a caliper, usually still fits in the day, depending on how busy the shop is and whether the parts are in town.
If a part has to be ordered for a less common vehicle, you’re waiting on shipping, not on us. The labour itself goes fairly quickly once everything is here. Drop the car off by 9:00am on the day you book and we have the whole day to work with.
What it depends on
Mostly on how far the wear has gone. Pads caught early are a simple swap. Pads run down to the backing plate damage the rotors, and now you’re paying for rotors too. That’s the main reason to come in when you first hear a change, not when stopping starts to feel scary.
The price depends on your vehicle and which parts need work, and we won’t know that until we’ve had the wheels off. You get the number before we start.
Related to this
Uneven brake wear sometimes traces back to the tires, so our tires page is worth a read if that sounds familiar. Not sure the noise is even the brakes? Car diagnostics will pin it down. Anything outside the braking system is on our auto repair page.
Common questions
Why are my brakes squealing?
Usually it's the wear tab on the pads, a small piece of metal that starts to squeal against the rotor once the pad gets thin. A squeal on the first couple of stops on a damp morning is often just surface rust coming off the rotors, and it goes away. If it keeps going once the car is warm, book a brake check.
Why does my car pull to one side when I brake?
Most often a caliper on one side is sticking, so that wheel brakes harder than the other. Uneven pad wear or a problem in a brake line can do it too. We check tire pressure first, because a soft front tire can feel just like a brake pull.
What does a grinding noise when braking mean?
It usually means the pad material is gone and the metal backing plate is rubbing on the rotor. Every stop from then on cuts into the rotor, so a pad job turns into pads and rotors. Book it as soon as you hear it.
How often should brake fluid be changed?
Brake fluid soaks up moisture over time, which lowers its boiling point and can make the pedal feel soft. We test the fluid during every brake inspection and tell you if it's due.
Do you use OEM parts for brake repair?
We use OEM or OEM equivalent pads, rotors and hardware, matched to your vehicle. You'll know which one we're quoting before we order anything.
Is a soft brake pedal urgent?
Yes. A pedal that sinks or feels spongy can mean air or moisture in the fluid, or a leak. You get less braking on the first press, so have it looked at the same day. Call us before you drive it any distance.
What can I safely check myself before booking?
Look at the brake fluid level in the reservoir under the hood, and notice whether the noise happens cold, warm or both. Leave the wheels on. A car up on a jack without proper stands is not safe to work under.
